Betcha didn't know that I moonlight as a makeup artist?! You wouldn't know it by looking at me most days, I give off more of a mom-of-3-kids vibe. I wasn't even into makeup most of my life, but I kind of fell into it when my mom brought mineral makeup into her skincare studio. When you have everything at your disposal to play with (and develop a minor addiction to makeup tutorials online) you learn fast! It does help to have an eye for color and understand how to enhance features of different shapes and sizes - and above all know how to communicate with your client! I received some pro training and did some freelance work for a San Francisco-based cosmetics company, and now I'm the resident makeup artist at Abundance. Here are some of the best tips and tricks I've picked up along the way...
Kandee Johnson's Concealer Trick
Brighten under your eyes and contour/slim your face in one step. After you use an orange-based shade to camouflage blue/purple dark spots, apply a light, yellow-based shade under the eyes in a triangle: from the inside corner of your eye, down the side of the nose, and along the top of the cheekbone to the outer corner of your eye - fill in and blend. This highlights and sculpts the cheekbones and de-puffs the nasal-labial area for a slimming effect. I'm sorry I can't remember which one of Kandee's videos I got this from.
If you're wearing eye shadow, you need to use a shadow base - it makes your shadow last and colors pop. I really like the one from TRUE because it's a nude color (most are clear) and totally camouflages discolored lids.
Not everyone "needs" foundation primer, usually exfoliated skin and a good moisturizer is sufficient - but it is really helpful for people with lines, large pores and pitting. It does help to use a primer around the eye area so that your concealer blends smoothly. Most primers are a silicone product, and if you want an inexpensive sub try Monistat Chaffing Gel (yes, this is a real thing - I didn't make it up).
The Tight Line
This is one of those life changing makeup tips. If you like a natural look or have small-ish eyes or can't draw a straight line to save your life, then this one's for you. You need a firm, flat brush, a hydrating mist and a dark powder. Use the mist to wet the brush, work some of the powder into the brush - it should be wetter than cake makeup but not watery.
Photo from Everyday Beauty |
Get very close to a mirror and gently lift up on your lid to expose the lash line. Gently press the brush against the base of your lashes and work your way across the lash line (pressing, not dragging across). The result is crisp definition without a heavy line on the lids, and when you top it off with mascara it just makes your lashes look darker and thicker. This is the ultimate natural-looking eye liner. You can use this technique with a nicely sharpened pencil but it might have a less crisp and more smokey/smudgy effect.
Contouring - it's not just for drag queens
Contouring is so easy that it has become a regular part of my regime - on the days I wear makeup, that is. Unlike the pretty lady in this photograph, I have a naturally round face, and it is especially round lately if you catch my drift. Use a dark brown powder that isn't too orange, and a brush (an angled blush brush is good).
Photo from Offbeat + Inspired |
Know Thy Brushes
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